Development of dining out culture

In 20^th century, Incheon was always crowded with foreigners because during those days, it was the hub of shipping trade. Also, most embassies were located at Incheon. Restaurants targeting foreigners first appeared in early 1900 [3]. Chinese restaurants like Gonghwachoon and Joonghwaru were first to open followed by Japanese restaurants [1]. Eating out at those restaurants was extravagant entertainment Japanese officials, the rich, and collaborators enjoyed. The dining out culture was new to Chosun people because most of the time they ate at home. Officials went to Nujeong to hang out with kisaeng and had dinner, but they did not pay for the meal. They paid for the kisaeng’s service [4].

Image of Myungwolgwan by Encyclopedia of Korean Culture website [2]

Bench marketing Japanese restaurants, Soonhwan Ahn who was in charge of royal court cuisine from 1901 to 1910 opened Myungwolgwan very first Chosun restaurant in September 17th, 1903. Myungwolgwan served royal court cuisine. The fact that anyone with money can try “royal food” and watch kisaeng’s court dance attracted rich Chosun commoners. Before royal court cuisine and banquet was exclusive to king; wealth could not overcome the bureaucracy. However, that tradition broke down in 20^th century. Government officials, businessmen, and Chosun commoners had private and public meetings at Myungwolgwan [2, 4].

As more Japanese officials and rich Chinese traders visited Myungwolgwan; the “royal court cuisine” catered to their tastes. For example Myungwolgwan started serving Japanese style, sea fish sashimi. Chosun people consume freshwater fish sashimi more while Japanese people preferred sea fish sashimi. They served Japanese Sukiyaji in Sinseollo and foreign fruits [1]. Though Myungwolgwan became more commercialized, people thought everything Myungwolgwan served as “Chosun cuisine” – Myungwolgwan served the “image of Chosun.”

 

Image of Chosun people eating naengmyun 

{http://idealist.egloos.com/viewer/5388848}

Besides fancy Chosun royal court cuisine restaurants, gookbab(국밥집) restaurants were very popular among commoners and laborers. Literal translation of gookbab is soup and rice; eating gookbab was quick, and easy way to have a meal. Seollungtang was a classic menu. Choo-uh tang was popular in fall while naengmyun was a hit in summer. Different types of bibimbab were first served at gookbab restaurants [3].

Another dining out place that was popular, especially among laborers were Daepotjib(대폿집). Daepotjib served mak gul li and side dishes such as bin dae duk, soondae, and mae un tang. Many laborers could drink and eat cheap after their work [3]. In 20^th century, dining out culture prospered among all social and financial classes. The dining out culture has become a "vehicle for culture and nutrition" rather than a mean for satisfying hunger [5].

FUN FACT: There is a Jjajangmyun museum in Incheon Chinatown. The museum is about the history of Gonghwachoon, one of the very first Chinese restaurants in Korean history.

Reference:

1. EBS DocuPrime: A Talk about Korean Food. Educational Broadcasting System, 2012. 
2. "Myungwolgwan." Encyclopedia of Korean Culture. Web. April. 2014 
{http://encykorea.aks.ac.kr/Contents/Contents?contents_id=E0018335#}

3. Joo, Youngha. Korean History on Eating Table. Seoul: Humanist, 2013. Print.

4. Joo, Youngha. "The First Chosun Restaurant: Soonhwan Ahn and Myungwolgwan." 東洋學 2011. 50 (): pp.141-162 1229-3199. Print.
5. Lee, DW. “Changes in Perspectives on Eating Out Culture after Modernization in Korea.” 中央民俗學 第十七號, 2012.3: 65-99